Honolulu Creek's "Beach Party"

Over at Toby's Blog is a bit about his and Brad's recent overnight trip to the whole of Honolulu.

The video is great and the run looks super:



If I wasn't headed to China's Yunnan Province near Kawagebo and the Yarlung Tsangpo region of SE Tibet next week for a month, that would be my next destination!

Thigh straps rule. I don't care who says otherwise.

Everybody who slips into a pair of Aire brand thigh straps in an Alpacka, particularly with the seat moved forward, is in agreement: once you go strap you don't go back.

And as the king of upside down packrafting, I must disagree with the queen of manufacturing: they are a cinch to get out of quickly and easily. Just straighten your legs.

This month I've been able to put a few days in while strapped into my heavily-modded yellow Llama. First Scott Solle invited me out with his swiftwater rescue class on Eagle River. NOLS Alaska was there in numbers and everyone who tried out the thigh-strapped packraft was in agreement that it's a qualitatively new and different experience. Straps got my son back into boating and the swiftwater class was the best money he's spent this year, he said.

Before that Brad Mieklejohn finally got his thigh straps in and we ran Wolverine Creek out in the Valley. It has a decent walk in on ATV trail(s) to about 1800 feet elevation. The first mile or so drops at 300 feet a mile with only about 3 defined drops. It's super steep water over rounded granite boulders, no real channel, blind corners, combat butt-boating, but surprisingly no wood. The steep stuff ends with the end of all that "mini-Su" boulder bashing and the creek enters a canyon that has bluff-turn rapids -- or so I hear from Brad. I got swept out and lost my boat at the end of the steep stuff. Brad chased it down. I climbed out and walked back, understanding why Embick gave Wolverine Creek no (i.e, 0) quality stars in his book Fast and Cold.

Moe Witschard, who ran a bit of Peters Creek with Thai and me last year, came up to guide a trip in the Brooks Range this year. Moe had just outfitted his boat with thigh straps and seat moved forward. Moe, Brad, and I went out to Bird Creek but balked at its level: too high. Paul Schauer said it's got wood in the canyon and he had quite an adventure at its current water level last week. This year's melt-off busted the long standing log-jam apart and spewed wood all downstream. The high water also flushed the wood stuck in the Mushroom down into the canyon with a log over what I call "Bird Brain" (first drop below Mushroom) and "Center Falls", the 10 foot high slidy-thingy. So anyway, Moe, Brad and I went and put into Crow Creek below the miner's wee footbridge and ran Glacier Creek as a consolation run. The Crow Creek start is only good if you want to cut your boat or bounce your butt on mining debris. Glacier Creek is a good PR3 run for intermediate boaters in decked boats. It was a good run for Moe to find that he really liked his seat moved forward in conjunction with his thigh straps.

The next day, Brad and Moe and I drove up to Hurricane Gulch on the Parks Highway and walked to the first obvious drainage into Honolulu (see map -- look for drainage just east of waypoint "011") to do "Waikiki Beach", a put-in about a mile shy but two hours earlier than "Waikiki". There was no brush on the walk-in and if you follow the drainage's right rim you can miss the talus, too.

This is the best 10 mile walk-in packrafting trip IN THE WORLD. The water level was a bit low, but super, super, super fun. At the Honolulu Bridge the gray boulder was dry and the white boulder had about 5 inches of water. We put in just above the "California Ledge" (watch your head -- see the video at 1:30) and really enjoyed the clear water and smooth granite below California Ledge as well as the three beefy drops in the final schisty canyon ("Monkey's Garden"). There's a shallow canyon between these two, just below where a major trib comes in on river right, with a really powerful right-sliding drop called "Slideways". The hole at the bottom is sticky on the left but too far right sends you careening into the right wall. This is my favorite drop on the whole run (see the video at 1:40). The last hour or so is a bit of a buzz-kill and cold in the evening. We took 4 hours to hike in and 3 hours to boat out. This really is a five star trip: great hiking and great boating, but a bit of a long drive.

Brad and I took a rest day and then teamed up with style-king Paul Schauer, whose first time in a packraft wowed us on Montana Creek, to fill a float plane into Disappointment Creek.

Here's the video:

Details to follow....

Waikiki Video

Here's a You-Tube video of Honolulu Creek and the walk-in. Thai Verzone and Gordy Vernon (Mean Mr,Mustard) were great companions on this trip. Funny, skilled, talkative, strong. Gordy fed us breakfast, lunch and dinner.

We are hoping to do Happy River next as a three day trip.

Update July 15, 2018: The upper section is no longer "yukky" but better described as "yummy" especially if in a modern Alpacka, like the Gnarwhale. There are several Class IV drops, but it's certainly not "yukky", especially if you like Class IV.

There's a 15 mile beautiful walk in to Goat Lake. Camp there, walk to the confluence with Honolulu, put camp in the zipper, and head down if water is clear and maybe in the 250 cfs range below the confluence. There is still a nasty drop that even now, we all portaged, although we hear the kayaker's run it. It's the "Upper Sand Bag Falls" described in the "Honolulu Hoop" description and shown in the photo with Brad portaging high above it emptying into a pool.


Waikiki * * * *
20 miles 1 day
Moderate Expense
N. Talkeetna Mountains Hike
ATV trail; alpine scree; mostly tundra
2,940 foot gain
10 mile walk
Honolulu Creek paddle
PR 4(5)
Low volume –100 feet/mile
10 mile paddle

Introduction

The “Waikiki” section of Honolulu Creek is a Ship Creek for Talkeetna. An incredible, scenic walk-in, followed by super-fun (at low water), technical packrafting makes this an Alaskan classic. Honolulu Creek has been called the best Class IV kayak run in the State of Alaska. For packrafters who have mastered low water runs of Ship Creek and Willow Creek’s Guard-rail, this backcountry alternative to Honolulu Hoop cherry picks the best of Honolulu Creek, its lower two canyons. An ATV trail from the Hurricane Canyon Bridge leads to high country hiking with wonderful views. The hiking is easy and enjoyable with no brush and dry feet. While this trip could be done as a camping trip, the low water that’s best for packrafting will necessitate a super-light load.

Waypoints (NAD 27)

Waypoint 010
Little Honolulu Pass
60.01357
149.45705

Waypoint 011
Edge of plateau
63.01616
149.38173

Waypoint 009
Viewpoint into creek
63.02130
149.33865

Waypoint 008
1st meadow
63.02130
149.33865

Waypoint 007
2nd meadow
63.02295
149.33396

Waypoint 006
3rd meadow
63.02374
149.33340

unmapped waypoints
meadows en route
63.02486
149.33482

63.02759
149.33263

63.02690
149.33296

Waypoint 005
Put-in
63.02811
149.33211

Waypoint 004
“Cave Rocks Drop” PR 4
63.02926
149.34432


Waypoint 012
“California Ledge” PR 5
63.03606
149.36962

Waypoint 013
“Slideways” PR 5
63.05850
149.39700

Waypoint 014
“Monkey’s Garden” PR 4
63.06511
149.42608

Honolulu Hoop

Honolulu Hoop * * *
29 miles 2-4 days
Moderate Expense
N. Talkeetna Mountains hike
Some forest, brush; mostly tundra
3,250 foot gain
12 mile walk
Honolulu Creek paddle
PR 5(6)
Low volume –150 feet/mile
17 mile paddle

A scenic hike in the northern Talkeetna Mountains to run the steep, challenging and technical but beautiful Honolulu Creek (Class IV+). Hike involves forest, brush, and extensive tundra walking with views of Denali’s east side and the Talkeetnas. Best done in June when upper North Fork of Honolulu is runnable and alpine and subalpine vegetation not fully leafed out. A loop trip that begins and ends at Parks Highway Crossing of Honolulu Creek. A remote, difficult run in a brushy canyon.

Description A thirty mile weekend of serious wilderness packrafting. The 6-10 hour walk-in is mostly tundra, open forest, moose trail, and easy brush (B4 or below). Paddling begins with an hour and a half on the North Fork of Honolulu Creek (PR 3-4). Camp above the confluence of Goat Lake Creek and Honolulu Creek. Early start with good communication and paddling skills needed for the long day (8-14 hours) down the 12 miles of Honolulu Creek with some PR 5 paddling unavoidable. Start Parks Highway at Honolulu Creek Bridge, 63.0637 N 149.54335 W. Finish A Loop.

Introduction Honolulu Creek has been called the best Class IV kayak run in the State of Alaska. For packrafters who have mastered low water runs of Ship, Six Mile, and Canyon Creeks, this wilderness run of a steep creek can be very rewarding and exciting. Kayakers fly-in to Goat Lake south of Honolulu Pass and run the creek in a day, but walking in adds-up as a two-day trip: a day to walk in and a day to paddle out. The hiking is easy and enjoyable with little brush, most of which can be avoided by judicious use of game trails and meadow linkage.  It is important to travel light, as the technicalities of the creek require quick moves and portages may require steep gorge climbs followed by fight brush in alders and willows.

 Hiking Starting at the Honolulu Creek bridge walk north along the Parks Highway about a quarter mile or less, looking east 20 yards for the start of a low ridgeline across a steep erosion gully, itself hidden below overhanging alders. The ridge leads to the edge of an ancient alluvial bench 100-200 feet above the forested flats of Honolulu Creek. Follow the edge east for about an hour or so through open spruce-birch forest with some alder patches. En route cross over a few gullies and creeks and beneath the Fairbanks-Anchorage intertie power-line. Eventually (2.5 miles) this rim swings north, parallel to a tributary of Honoulu Creek that leads into the high country. As the rim swings north, intercept a moose trail that weaves in and out of rim-side alder patches (B4). Avoid heading directly up-stream, and instead stay in blueberry meadows among thick alder patches in an effort to gain the left ridgeline. Stay high to avoid alders (B3) on intermittent caribou trails, dropping down to follow the creek upstream of an old moraine. Tundra walking and scree climbing lead up the pass and beyond to the North Fork of Honolulu Creek. During spring run-off, this little creek is runnable from below the 3,400 feet elevation. A good place to put in is where two creeks come in on river left with little incised gorges.

Other hiking involves several likely portages along the whitewater run of Honolulu Creek. The first portage past the “Decapitator” (upstream of Goat Lake Creek junction) on river right is easy tundra walking on river left. Portages past the upper and lower “Sand Bag Falls” and “Right On!” are more rigorous and exposed (these are marked as red lines across Honolulu Creek on the map). Longer portages (black) follow moose/bear/caribou trails on river right, some of which can be very distinct but can also disappear in thick B4 alders or willows. Portages past other rapids (red lines perpendicular to stream on map) are short: the first two in open shrubs and tundra, and the last three are creekside.

Boating Honolulu Creek from just below Goat Lake Creek is a Class IV+ kayak run. It’s located a dozen miles from the road in an alder-choked valley with two sharp-rock gorges, one granite sieve-type gorge, and snow-melt whitewater dropping up to 180 feet/mile.  While its flow is in the 250-400 cfs range, its steepness, blind corners, and microeddies  make the potential for cut tubes, foot entrapment, and run-away boats a serious run for packrafters. Secondly, aside from its technical difficulty, sustained rigor, and hazards, Honolulu Creek is poorly documented by the whitewater community. Many hardcopy and online descriptions are confusing. 

Putting-in on the North Fork after the hike-in offers a quick, comfortable 2.5 mile ride (100 feet/mile) to an interesting drop (the “Defibrillator” rapid, PR 4, scout on river left). The creek is splashy, low volume, and fun, well above tree-line, with no real hazards. Below this snaking drop is an easy canyon (PR 3, 125 feet/mile) leading 1.5 miles down to the reach just upstream of the “Decapitator” (Class V) and the confluence of Honolulu with Goat Lake Creek. You will recognize bad rapids are approaching when a large, ten-foot high rock outcrop appears midstream.  This is a good place to get out and portage left past two rapids (the second of which is the kayak community’s Class V “Decapitator Drop”) neither of which looks particularly fun in a packraft. Put in below the Decapitator at the confluence with Goat Lake Creek. 

I consider the run to the road from Goat Lake Creek in nine distinct sections: The first section (blue on map) is a sustained PR 4 section (180 feet/mile) in a shallow gorge for 15 minutes to the first waterfall, “Upper Sand Bag Falls”. Watch for a creek river right about 15 minutes downstream of the confluence of Honolulu and Goat Lake Creek. Eddy right early on for an easy portage or river left late for a shorter, steeper one. If you miss the creek, you’ll see the alarming horizon line and narrow slot. “Upper Sand Bag Falls” looks doable in a packraft, but is best portaged, as a swim looks inevitable and the rock is sharp and the slot narrow.

Section two  (red and yellow on map) is a longer (2 miles), more intense PR 4-5 section, the hardest on Honolulu for a packraft, as the creek drops 170 feet/mile in a deepening gorge of sharp-schist with several probable portages, including “Upper and Lower Sand Bag Falls” (water in between runnable).  Many rapids will require scouting, and some portaging. Swimming is dangerous because of the sharp rocks, small eddies and surprisingly frequent undercuts and sieves. Most of the creek is set 75-100 feet into the gorge, itself topped with alders. Minimum party size ought to be three; but the creek may be too small for much larger parties. At its easiest, this section suggests the first canyon in Six Mile Creek; more often it feels like a high-volume version of the Kenai’s Canyon Creek. Many drops are constricted and powerful. Packrafters may elect to bail out and portage before the canyon ends. River right seems to have the best animal trails.

Section three (black on map) may best be portaged (half a mile) to easy water downstream of the first mapped river right stream and river left pond. Section four (green on map) is relaxing PR 2-3 in an open, broad valley that’s over all too quickly. It drops fast  (125 feet/mile) but easily. 

Section five (red on map) appears as a shallow, granite canyon (90 feet/mile) with two memorable 3-4 foot ledge drops (“Cave Drop Rocks” and “California Ledge”), each framed by big boulders (PR 5). Many PR 4 drops follow the reach below California Ledge which is the best, difficult section of the run for packrafts. While guidebooks and online material suggest this is the hardest section, from a packrafter’s perspective, it is not as difficult as section two in the first canyon below Goat Lake Creek confluence.

Section six (green) is a another, clean, relaxing PR 2-3 section dropping 90 feet/mile through boulders, starting in a gorge and passing through a cottonwood flat (interrupted by a possible PR 4 portage at a river right creek), then ending when the creek takes a sharp turn left into a narrowing canyon and signaled with a steep, fish-tail shaped cascading creek entering from river left.

Relaxation is interrupted in section seven (three red lines across creek), a short, sharp-schist gorge with three powerful drops (PR 5) that can be portaged bankside, the first on river left, the next river right, and the last on river left. The last two arrive back to back. All are runnable in a packraft.

 Johnson’s Alaska Whitewater describes section eight (red on map) as a “manky boulder garden” (2 miles, 90 feet/mile, PR 3-4). It goes on for nearly an hour with big waves and steep channels  among short splits in the creek. Wood becomes an increasing concern.

The final section, an almost relaxing (40 feet/mile, PR 2-3) three miles to the car, takes about and hour through a wide valley with cottonwood sweepers.

The best advice for judging an appropriate water level seems to be to look at the boulders at the Parks Highway bridge over Honolulu Creek.  Looking upstream from the bridge are some large rocks on river left (looker’s right -- see on the right center of photo below ), adjacent to the parking area. If they are fully dry, the run is too low; if there are holes it’s far too high. If you are unable to judge the flow as in the 300-400 cfs range, don’t go.